Introduction:
The temples of Khajuraho are India's unique gift to the world,
representing, as they do, a paean to life, to love, to joy,
perfect in execution and sublime in expression. Life, in every
form and mood, has been captured in stone, testifying not
only to the craftsman's artistry but also to the extraordinary
breadth of vision of the Chandela Rajputs under whose rule
the temples were conceived and constructed, The Khajuraho
temples were built in the short span of a hundred yeas, from
950-1050 AD, in a truly inspired burst of creativity. Of the
85 original temples, 22 have survived till today to constitute
one of world's great artistic winders. The temples lay forgotten
for many centuries, covered by the encroaching forests, victim
to the ravages of the elements. Re-discovered only in this
century, restored and cleaned, the temples of Khajuraho once
again testify to a past glory.
Sightseeing:
Lakshmana Temple:
The large Lakshmana Temple is dedicated to Vishnu, although
in design it is similar to the Kandriya Mahadeva and Vishvanath
temples. It is one of the earliest of the western enclosure
temples, dating from around 930 to 950 AD, and is also one
of the best preserved, with a full five-part floor plan and
four subsidiary shrines. Around the temple are two bands of
sculpture instead of the usual three; the lower one has fine
figures of apsaras and some erotic scenes. Inside are excellent
examples of apsaras acting as supporting brackets. On the
subsidiary shrine at the south-west corner is an architect
working with his students - it is thought this may be the
temple's designer including himself in the grand plan. Around
the base of the temple is a continuous frieze with scenes
of battles, hunting and processions. The first meter or two
consists of a highly energetic orgy, including one gentleman
proving that a horse can be a person's best friend, while
a stunned group of women look away in shock.
Kandariya Mahadev:
The first of the temples on the common platform at the back
of the western enclosure is not only the largest, it is also
artistically and architecturally the most perfect. Built 1025-50,
it represents Chandela art at its finest. Although the four
subsidiary shrines that once stood around the main temple
are long gone, the central shrine is in superb condition and
shows the typical five-part design of Khajuraho temples. The
main spire is 31m high, and the temple is lavishly carved.
The English archaeologist Cunningham counted 226 statues inside
the temple and a further 646 outside - 872 in total with most
of them nearly 1m high. The statues are carved around the
temple in three bands and include gods, goddesses, beautiful
women, musicians and, of course, some of the famed erotic
groups. The mithuna on the Kandariya Mahadev include some
of the most energetic eroticism to be seen at Khajuraho.
Vishvanath & Nandi:
Believed to have been built in 1002, this temple has the complete
five-part design of the larger Kandariya Mahadev Temple, but
two of its four subsidiary shrines still stand. The large
image of Shiva's vehicle, the bull Nandi, faces the temple
from the other end of the common platform. Steps lead up to
this high terrace, flanked by lions on the northern side and
elephants on the southern side. The sculptures around the
temple include the usual Khajuraho scenes, but the sculpture
of women are particularly notable here. They write letters,
fondle a baby, play music and, perhaps more so than at any
other temple, languish in provocative poses.
Matangesvara:
Standing next to the Lakshmana Temple, this temple is not
within the fenced enclosure because it is still in everyday
use, unlike all the other old Khajuraho temples. It may be
the plainest temple here (suggesting that it was one of the
first built) but inside it sports a polished lingam, 2.5m
high. Early in the morning, flower-sellers do a brisk trade
in garlands for the statue of Ganesh outside. People drape
them round the elephant-headed statue, say a prayer and as
they walk away the sellers whip the flowers off to resell!
Lakshmi & Varaha:
Facing the large Lakshmana Temple are these two small shrines.
The Varaha Temple, dedicated to Vishnu's boar incarnation
or Varaha avataar, faces the Matangesvara Temple. Inside this
small, open shrine is a huge, solid and intricately carved
figure of the boar incarnation, dating from around 900 AD.
Chausath Yogoni & Lalguan Mahadev:
Standing beyond the tank, some distance from the other western
group temples, this ruined temple is probably the oldest at
Khajuraho, dating from 900 AD or earlier. It is also the only
temple constructed entirely of granite and the only one not
aligned east to west. Chausath means 64 - the temple once
had 64 cells for the figures of the 64 yogonis who attended
the goddess Kali. A 65th cell sheltered Kali herself. A farther
500m west is the Lalguan Mahadev Temple, a small, ruined shrine,
dedicated to the Shiva and constructed of granite and sandstone.
Mahadeva:
This small and mainly ruined temple stands on the same base
as the Kandariya Mahadev and the Devi Jagadamba. Although
small and insignificant compared to its mighty neighbors,
it houses one of the Khajuraho's best sculptures - a fine
sardula figure caressing a lion.
Devi Jagadamba:
The third temple on the common platform is slightly older
than the Kandariya Mahadev and of a simpler, three-part design.
It was probably originally dedicated to Vishnu, but later
dedicated to Parvati and then Kali. Some students believe
it may still be a Parvati temple and that kali image(or Jagadamba)
is actually an image of Parvati, painted black. The sculptures
around the temple are again in three bands. Many of the two
lower band images are of Vishnu with sardulas in the inner
recesses. But on the third and the uppermost band the mithuna
again come out to play.
Chitragupta:
The fourth temple at the back of the western enclosure does
not share the common platform with the other three. Similar
in design to the Devi Jagadamba, this temple is probably slightly
newer and is unique at Khajuraho in being dedicated to Surya,
the sun god. Attempts have obviously been made at restoration,
but it is not in as good condition as other temples. Nevertheless
it has some very fine sculptures, which includes processions,
dancing girls, elephant fights and hunting scenes. In the
inner sanctum, Surya can be seen driving his chariot and seven
horses, while on the central niche in the south facade you
can see an 11-headed statue of Vishnu himself; the 10 others
are of his incarnations.
Parvati:
Continuing around the enclosure, you come to the Parvati temple
on your right. The name is probably incorrect since this small
and not so interesting temple was originally dedicated to
Vishnu and now has an image of Ganga riding on the back of
crocodile.
Jain Museum:
Outside the Jain enclosure is the modern circular gallery,
filled with statues of the 24 tirthankars. |
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